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Memorial Day: Exploring Kodiak’s World War II remains

“Old Soldiers never die, they just fade away.”

— General Douglas MacArthur

With the last U.S. World War I veteran passing in 2011, living memories of World War II are rapidly fading. Soon, just the physical remains of the conflict will be left behind. Kodiak is home to an astounding number of structures built during World War II. Reports indicate that $17 million dollars was spent in the construction of Kodiak’s bases. That is approximately $244,000,000 in today’s dollars! We see evidence of this activity every day. From the gun barrel near the airport (relocated from Fort J.H. Smith in Chiniak) to the ready ammunitions bunker at Fort Abercrombie (site of the Military History Museum), the road system is dotted with reminders of the era.  Some WWII buildings are well-preserved and some are still in use by the U.S. Coast Guard. Others are partially collapsed. Most often, only the moss covered foundations or depression where buildings was once stood survive.

Memorial Day weekend is a great time to explore Kodiak’s military history. Fort Abercrombie, with its helpful signage is the most accessible place to start. Miller Point not only offers an awesome panoramic view and photo op of Monashka Bay and Spruce Island, but a ready ammunitions bunker, two fixed gun emplacements, a distant electrical control bunker, light shelter, and plotting and spotting room are all nearby. Piedmont Point just southeast of Miller Point was the location of a radar site. Like many other industries and technologies, the use of radar advanced rapidly during the war. Even if WWII history is not your thing, the virgin spruce forest, dramatic sheer bluffs and budding wildflower meadows are worth the walk.

If you are feeling more adventurous, some the earliest sites at former Fort Greely are different than the mammoth concrete bunkers and rectangular Quonset huts of post-1942. More organic in shape, with construction materials of wood, chicken wire, and roof tarp, these hand-made structures are sometimes perplexing. The earliest semi-subterranean gun emplacements, located in Buskin River State Recreational Site, have a large entry with small side rooms. This design reminds me more of an ancient Alutiiq ciqlluaq (sod house) more than a military building.

When I am alone appreciating these sites, I feel connected to the men who served our country. Like me, they were cold and wet, but they could not go home, have dinner with their parents, kiss their sweetheart, eat an apple from the orchard down the road, or hang out at the local malt shop. Instead, in the early days in Kodiak, they were carrying heavy screw pickets, stringing barbed wire along beaches and hillsides to prevent Japanese forces attacking their gun positions. Taking afternoon breaks in small single room bivouacs talking about home over a cup of joe. At night, they slept in diminutive hand-made bunks in tents, or if lucky, a wood structure with a stove and windows.

While you are out exploring, learning or remembering, it is important to consider that these historic sites are protected by State law. While some are on public land, many are on private land. I advise you, your friends and family to not walk into the depressions or foundations of former structures. A nail through the shoe is not fun. I learned this the hard way. Likewise, moss has taken over many of the sites and under the moss is shattered glass, rusty metal, broken pieces of dimensional lumber and other contaminants. Although a lot of environmental remediation has occurred, it’s not complete. Deep in undocumented territory, I was on my knee photographing one of the numerous depressions, only to find I was kneeling on a decayed drum with ancient paint labeled ”flammable” with a hand painted skull and crossbones. Sigh.  Being bear aware is also important. Old roads are now waterways and bear trails. I talk a lot to let any bears know I am in their territory, I carry bear spray, and I know what I am supposed to do if I encounter a bear.

Connecting with Kodiak’s history can be rewarding in many ways. I think of it as an added bonus to the majestic natural beauty of our island. On one trip I can tide pool with my daughter, watch eagles soar, or see if we both come up with the same count of how many concrete footings it took to hold up a mess hall. It brings up conversation you might not expect. On one of our expeditions, my daughter surprisingly asked me, “Why do we have war?”

Abigail looking in a possible foxhole. At this particular beach, picket screws and barbed wire were employed to help prevent Japanese troops from attacking the fixed gun emplacements on top of the cliff.